Nowhere more appropriate to ask this as I'm apparently banned in c/guns, c/liberalgunowners and c/asklemmy. WTF is wrong with this revolver?!
(imgur.com)
from shalafi@lemmy.world to nostupidquestions@lemmy.world on 16 Oct 03:13
https://lemmy.world/post/37410992
from shalafi@lemmy.world to nostupidquestions@lemmy.world on 16 Oct 03:13
https://lemmy.world/post/37410992
Most posts to those 3 comms fail, but sometimes that’s lemmy errors. Anyway.
Rough Rider .22 revolver. Shells on the right are spent, left are unfired. Cylinder won’t rotate after the 3rd shot because the shells deform and poke up. Hell is that? It’s like they fire, bounce back and crumple, which doesn’t seem physically possible.
Sure seems like that’s happening when shooting it. Tested 5 cylinders, .22 and .22WMR, all the same results. Scarily, I can feel some back blast from the more powerful .22WMR, which again shouldn’t be possible.
Took it apart for some deep cleaning the other night, didn’t see anything weird, put it back together. Still fails. And this is the 3rd such gun I’ve owned, not my first rodeo.
#nostupidquestions
threaded - newest
looks like the gun part is missing. I hope I helped
You can just chuck the wheel at people. It’s heavy enough.
Can you dry fire it and rotate through every position? From what I’ve seen on revolvers sometimes a cylinder can be binding somewhere specific to the cylinder rotation.
You might also want to take every screw out of the frame to check and make sure none of them are broken which could be causing inconsistency.
I can dry fire and spin the cylinder all night long. Fucked with it watching a movie before and after cleaning it, will 5 different cylinders.
There is something wrong with the firearm itself. I’d contact heritage. Thankfully these guns are stupid cheap. So they might just replace the thing completely.
Once you get it fixed, remember to use snap caps when dry-firing anything rimfire. The firing pin can hit the chamber and fuck things up. It isn’t an issue with center-fire (including rimmed center-fire like .357 Mag or 7.62x54R), since the pin just goes down the barrel on a dry fire, but there isn’t much space between the pin and shoulder on a rim-fire.
Got snap caps for almost all my guns! Love 'em! This model has a hammer-block safety. That’s safe to dry fire, yes? Never hits the firing pin.
Oh, yeah, that’s probably fine. I didn’t expect it to, given the price.
I agree with the comments on this forum (www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/mushrooming…) that the cylinder could have a machining defect. (Basically a headspace issue, also but kinda not. The cartridges are sitting too deep in the cylinder itself.)
If there is room for the brass to get pushed back far enough for it to mushroom out, something is seriously wrong. The issue could manifest from a machining error as small as 5-10 thou, I am speculating.
My first thought was excessive chamber pressure, but the bulging would be much worse around and behind the rim itself if that were the case.
The bullet and the brass get pushed in opposite directions and if the brass can move, it will move before it deforms. If it deforms, it’ll deform at the weakest spot first, like we see in your pic. (Excessive chamber pressure tends to expand the brass and lock it in place. With center-fire, it’ll blow the primers out or have a hole punched in them from the firing pin first. With rim fire, the pressure pushes back on the rim.)
Also, check for excessive slop with the cylinder. If it can move forwards and backwards too much, that could also telling of issues with other parts of the gun. (Like I mentioned before, it doesn’t take much for a gun to be out of spec enough to cause issues with brass.)
This was my initial thinking as well. Could also be something loose in the cylinder connection that is allowing it to move and shift around side to side just enough to allow the brass to deform.
Seconding this one. Looking at the furthest from camera case, my money it that there is play in the cylinder along the axis of the cylinder pin. That case being swollen, just above the rim means one thing, that the case has enough room to move back out of the cylinder while firing to allow that to happen. Overpressure i.e. hot loads may be contributing to an issue you wouldn’t observe with lighter loads. Have you played around using different ammo?
All ammo, all cylinders. Taking it out in a bit and holding the cylinder tight against the gun when I fire. Bet money that works, not sure where to go from there.
There’s two things that could get it acting right that I can think of: Replace the cylinder (expensive, may not work but might) Shim it i.e. find a washer with internal diameter of cylinder pin or smaller and rut it out to the right diameter, then file it down to the width that takes the play out ( couple issues with this, one it’ll increase the flash gap i.e. bigger halos, reduced velocity and increased leading, two potential annealing of the makeshift shim with the fram of the gun) Let us know how it goes
Got me in the zone! Testing today and the cylinder pin wasn’t seating tight. Tried to tighten the release button, already tight, seemed good for a minute.
Fired 6 rounds, but it got sticky. Same issue, but not as bad. Too tired to mess with it more tonight, but the cylinder is indeed moving forward on the cylinder pin axis.
You are now my rubber duck.
Are you sure? There’s no ban that shows up for you in the mod logs of any of those communities.
Engagement
Huh?
Like putting a typo in the title. It’s to hook people in who wouldn’t otherwise engage by voting and replying.
That said, I have two thoughts:
the mods removed my comment agreeing with you. Such monsters.
Nope. Among many other comms, those always fail to allow my posts. Firefox/Windows/PC. ?
Every post refreshes the scren to start a new post, written post is gone. This happens on loads of comms, assumed I was banned.
I mean something is wrong because I can’t even see the picture
<img alt="" src="https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/26400f43-038a-4ec9-bb55-670fed67399c.png">